Author: Gay Eiko Yoshikawa Zialcita, Member, HABI—Philippine Textile Council
Some Ilocano fabrics, hand-woven in Abra, Ilocos Sur, and Ilocos Norte, feature checkered optical illusion (Op Art) patterns. Visually, these closely resemble the floor-to-ceiling, black-and-white paintings of French-Hungarian painter Victor Vasarely. He lived from 1906 to 1997 and became known, particularly from the 1960s until his death, for his optical illusion (Op Art) paintings featuring geometric shapes. Common to both his paintings and the Ilocos binakol hand-woven cotton fabrics are undulating square patterns that seem to vibrate.
Photo: Courtesy of Fine Art America Shop. Vega III by optical illusion artist Victor Vasarely, Guggenheim Museum.
Photo: Courtesy of Gay Zialcita. Binakol fabric sewn into a bedcover.
Popularly used in the Philippines today as blankets, clothing, and home accessories, binakol fabrics are both strong and durable. I have one that I made into a bedcover, which is now in its fiftieth year and still in good condition, as shown above.
Binakol fabrics are traditionally made in the Ilocos regions of the Philippines.
The patterns of binakol cloth vary widely. For example, certain binakol patterns can be associated with specific towns in Ilocos Sur, including Vigan. Abra and Ilocos Norte also have traditions of weaving binakol cloth.
Below: Selected binakol fabric samples from the collection of Maria Louisa Engel.
Photographed by: Gay Zialcita.
Traditional binakol designs are often characterized by black-and-white checks of varying widths. The cloth is reversible, with the same pattern appearing on both sides. This is achieved by repeating the color of the last warp thread used to complete a square design during the warping process. Both the warp and weft threads alternate in color, typically combining a white thread with a colored thread. Some binakol fabrics also incorporate woven-in bands, about one-fourth of an inch wide, in both the warp and weft. These color accents add visual interest to the fabric.
Some traditional names for Ilocano weaving patterns include Abaniko, Kuruskus, Padek ti Pusa, Sabong ti Sabong, and Agalipugpog (fan, cross, cat’s paw, blooming flower, and whirlwind). Look for these patterns among the photos below. These are just a few of the many kinds of binakol weaves found in the Ilocos region.
About a century ago, shamans used binakol cloth in ritual practices. The fabric’s vibrating patterns were believed to help them enter a spiritual trance during prayers and rituals for either the living or the dead.
During funerals, a sacred burial blanket made of black-and-white binakol was used, about a century ago, to wrap smoke-preserved corpses. The wrapped body was then transferred into a limestone burial vessel or a wooden coffin. The coffin was carried up into a mountain cave, where it was buried and the cave served as a crypt.
Traditional cotton binakol is as heavy as boat sails and heavier than starched denim. Galleon Trade ships favored this type of cloth because of its durability and ability to withstand long voyages.
Today, more colorful binakol designs are popular among culture bearers. Their eye-catching patterns attract attention while giving the traditional textile a more contemporary look.
Summer 2018: Social Science Interim College students, together with the author, wearing binakol fashions during a banquet honoring participants from Vigan who helped gather information about the fabric.
Location: Gordion Inn Conference Room, Vigan, Ilocos Sur
Photo courtesy of: J. M. Nario, then a student.
Want to own a piece of binakol? Do stop by the Likhang HABI Market Fair on October 9, 10, and 11 at Space at One Ayala. See you there!
